Day 27 August 13: 18.8 Miles
Another morning, another wet tent. Went to bed with clear blue skies, awoke at 10pm with rain. It didn’t last long, but was enough to ensure a cold and wet pack up in the morning. It wouldn’t be so annoying if not for the fact that a wet tent adds probably 3 additional pounds to the pack. But hopefully it’ll be dry and clear during the day to dry it out during a break.
Mission accomplished. After a few miles we were able to dry everything out, opting for an early morning dry out because of inclement weather reports for the rest of the day, great.
We’ve been leapfrogging the last few days with a lovely couple from Germany. We originally met them in Twin Lakes, where they departed for the western collegiates while we went east. After hearing their (and others as well) reports on the western route, I’m very happy with our decision. Mostly above tree line, they were pelted with daily violent storms. In fact, the storms were so horrific many bailed out. Having experienced exposed storms on the JMT, I know how utterly terrifying that can be. That along with nightly rain I’m sure has dampened their spirits, but they always greet us warmly and with a smile. I hope we continue to see them!
We also ran into Shaggy (aka Hamburglar) and his trusty sidekick Scooby (aka Grimace). They’re thru hiking but Scooby has had some issues with his paws (yes he’s a dog), and needed a few days off while Shaggy continued. Luckily for them, Shaggy’s dad is following along in an RV and can resupply or help with Scooby the whole way! Lucky dog.
While talking and walking with Shaggy and Scooby, we came across the most amazing sight – a trail angel! Yesterday’s morale was at an all time low and seeing the most amazing spread of everything a hungry and exhausted hiker could want truly lifted spirits. Having hiked the CT 5 times, Tim knew exactly what we were craving! From fruit to snacks to candy to even bug spray and sunscreen, Tim and his wife Judy were truly what the doctor ordered. Made the next several miles all the more merrier.
Today could not have been a more picture perfect day with regards to trail, elevation, and views. The trail was rock less and actually flat. We were mostly exposed in gorgeous meadows with sweeping panoramic views. After yesterday, that was much much welcome. But we did pay the price with afternoon clouds and rain.
After almost 19 miles, we were ready to call it quits. The site we wanted to stay at was problematic- dead tree central. With more clouds rolling in, staying under dead trees with a storm is just plain dumb. We decided to join Shaggy, Scooby, and another hiker Mark in a semi exposed area just as the rain really started to come down. It’s a cozy little party of tents. And misery loves company, which looks like we’ll have plenty of misery to share.
Though the rain ended in an hour and lent itself to a beautiful rainbow. We quickly ate dinner and went to bed, hopeful that maybe, just maybe, we’ll have a dry night.
Day 28 August 14: 16 miles
No such luck. It rained, and we got frustrated, but moved on. At this point it’s better to just be prepared and expect to wake up wet. It ultimately isn’t a huge deal, but totally dampens spirits. Woke up to a sad Shaggy saying he was going to backtrack a few miles to meet with his dad to get Scooby off the trail. His paws are not doing well and he made the right decision to bail him out. I know the feeling all too well!
After such a long day yesterday, we were hoping for another forgiving day today. Which is exactly what we got. Lots of views with easy elevation.
Towards the end of the day I was slightly ahead of Sheena when I turned a blind corner and entered into an open field. I saw what I initially thought was a deer run from the water into the trees. Only deer don’t run so close to the ground or so nimbly. I recognized that run immediately – it was a cat! Only way bigger and more stealth than my one eyed and my three legged cats. It definitely wasn’t a mountain lion, I can only assume it was a bobcat. First sign of wild life other than deer or elk! Now if only a moose or bear would show up (in the far distance, of course).
Also of note, we’re officially out of cow county! No more camping next to cow poop or worrying about contaminated water! Oh happy days.
We have a really great camping spot we are sharing with the Germans. We are both praying for a dry night, but certainly not holding our breath.
Day 29 August 15: 16.5 miles
Well it didn’t rain! But darn was it cold overnight. For a second I thought it was just me until I opened my tent and it was completely stiff from being encased in frost. Huh… I guess it really was cold!
After thawing out, we were off for what was anticipated to be a very challenging day. Lots of miles with what looked like 5 very challenging climbs. Despite all that, today was by far my favorite day of this entire trip (don’t tell anyone I hiked with today this!). It was what I’ve been waiting to see and what I’ve anticipated from the Colorado trail. Today was a dream.
The climbs weren’t horrible, most were short and manageable with two being longer. But with the majority of the day being above tree line and completely exposed, there was so much distraction from the discomfort of a steep climb. So much so, I had a bit of a tumble that my knee took the brunt of. But I was able to shake it off and keep going.
After the second climb, I looked across the valley to a set of mountains. I saw what looked like a trail going right up to the highest peak. I laughed to myself, “man I feel sorry for the sucker who has to go up that!”, and even pointed it out to Sheena. As we descended, it became increasingly clear that we were headed straight towards that dreaded trail. It was a mile and a quarter of straight up, but conquerable.
I absolutely love being out of the trees and exposed. You can see for miles including where the trail is going. When weather is on your side it’s an absolute delight. You can even see who’s ahead or who’s gaining on you! We maintained our leapfrog relationship with the Germans and have added Mike AKA Critter AKA Cricket to our crew, though I’m sure he’ll blow past us soon.
One of the highlights of the day was seeing not only one, but two moose! With yesterday’s bobcat encounter and today’s bull moose sighting, I just need to see a bear to win wildlife bingo.
We got into camp late (for us) today, around 7pm. Still plenty of daylight, we were able to Set up camp and eat dinner but retreated to our tents because it’s already so cold. There are 6 of us scattered around a tiny lake and I’m predicting a cold cold night again. All 6 of us have the same idea – hike an easy 5 miles to get into Lake City for a resupply. It’s going to be tricky navigating how 6 people are all going to get a hitch into town, but if the past is any indicator, Sheena and I should be alright.
Day 30 August 16: 5 miles
After waking up yesterday encased in ice, I went to bed prepared with 2 pairs of socks, 2 pairs of pants, 3 shirts, and a hat and gloves. Though I was still pretty cold up at 12.3k’, at least we woke up dry!
We had an easy 5 mile walk to the trailhead to try and hitch into town. We didn’t expect to see 3 other people we’ve never met before trying the same thing! Competition isn’t great when hitching and there definitely is not strength in numbers. Fortunately, after about 15 min a truck came by to drop off CDT hikers. We asked if he could take us all back into town and he said of course! And wouldn’t you know the Germans were coming down off the trail at this very moment. Sheena ran to them to tell them to hurry their butts up if they want an easy ride! And just like that Casey fit all 7 of us in his truck and took us into Lake City.
Just about anyone hiking the CT stops in the little quaint town of Lake City. Because it’s 100 miles from Salida, hikers need a good resupply stop and Lake City fits the bill – and boy do they cater to us hikers! The community center is open 9-5 to help hikers with just about anything they could need. From food to toiletries to gear, they welcomed us with open arms.
We did laundry, grocery shopped, and most importantly- booked a hotel and ate. It’ll be great to sleep in a warm clean bed!
We’re only staying here for an overnight, but this town is worth so much longer of a visit. The people here are so warm and eager to help, it’s a heartwarming little place with some pretty rich history. We were told about the town’s most well known celebrity – a cannibal. Lovely! We have a ride set up for back to the trail tomorrow with Casey, one less thing to worry about.
Day 31 August 17: 17.3 miles
Happy birthday Sheena!!! I truly couldn’t imagine doing this hike with anyone else. She can handle my eccentricities with patience, humor, and kindness. So happy to be spending her special day with her!
Can’t say that sleeping in the hotel lent itself to a great night’s sleep. Whoever was above us decided 3:45am was a perfectly fine time to audition for a river dance! It was beyond frustrating, but I will give him the benefit of the doubt and hope that he was getting up early to conquer a 14er.
Casey picked us up right on time and made a pit stop at the local bakery. And let me tell you this bakery is worth the hype. A delicious donut and sausage kolache hit the spot perfectly! With that sitting in my belly I was ready to conquer whatever today threw our way.
And whoa did it threw us a doozy. We knew we were in for it when looking at the map. Lots of elevation gain with little camping potential. But we made our way through just like we always do.
We are officially in the San Juan’s and boy am I happy we saved this for last. We were above tree line the majority of the day with views that will last a lifetime. I have so many pictures it’s hard figuring out which ones to post! We even hit the highest point of the CT, 13,271’! It’s all downhill from here, right? Right?!
We were chased by some pretty gnarly storms all day that we managed to outrun. We’re still pretty high at 12.7k’ and super exposed. After watching the sky for about an hour, we are fully surrounded by storms. Lightning and thunder are everywhere around us, but not over us. Hopefully it stays that way and we have a dry night without being terrorized by lightning and thunder.
Day 32 August 18: 15.4 Miles
Well we weren’t able to dodge the storms, but at least we were already in our tents. Thunder, lightning, wind, rain, and coyotes soothed us to sleep. The lighting, while frequent and close, didn’t last all too long. We even got a second dose of rain right before getting up, great!
Not sure if it’s mental fatigue or I just really miss her, but just the mention of Addie’s name puts me into tears. I cannot wait to see her again!
In fact, all of today was physically grueling. More up and down which is getting pretty old. Legs are fatigued, feet ache, and mentally I’m pretty spent from not sleeping all too great the last few nights.
But still, the views were amazing so here are some pictures in place of words:
We have also been running into a number of mountain bikers taking place in a Colorado Trail Race. It set off last Sunday at 4am and the first place racer came in at 4 days. The crew we ran into today are apparently at the back of the pack, but they’re having fun anyway (but really how much fun is racing a bike in the mountains on 1 hour of sleep??). One guy we ran into, Eric, was especially a character. He was wearing a fox costume which was explained by his company, Embark. Embark is a 2 person operation (Eric and his wife) and they make endurance nutrition supplements with maple syrup they make on their maple syrup farm. So if you’re into ultra endurance activities (I mean who isn’t?) check them out!
Exhausted from yesterday and today, we ended today a little short and will make up the distance tomorrow. We’re shooting for an end date of exactly one week from today – final stretch!
Day 33 August 19: 16.2 miles
Very much not a good night’s sleep. Where we decided to camp was pretty sloped and i constantly woke up to stop from sliding all the way to the bottom of the tent. We were also surrounded by chirping marmots, and while I do have “Marmot” plastered all over my tent, it surely isn’t an open invitation. We got rain about an hour before our alarm, but woke up to dry tents. I even had to ask Sheena if it truly did rain to make sure I wasn’t going totally crazy!
Our hike started with more ups and downs and ended with an extreme 8 mile downhill. The sights were gorgeous as usual and we even saw another moose, but from a distance too far to capture by camera.
We are surrounded by old mining operations and saw many remnants of what was once a booming business, drawing thousands out to Colorado. Unfortunately, over time, a lot of these operations have contaminated much of the rivers we draw water from for drinking. Even with a filter, I don’t feel comfortable drinking from these water sources. Which means practicing discretion when obtaining water and even longer water carries.
We were hit by two storms today, the second being a little more violent than the first. But now that we’re below tree line, we’re not so worried about the threat of being struck by lightning.
We’re camping just shy of our intended goal for the day. We saw a flat spot and jumped at the opportunity, as we’re not sure what further on would have camping wise. After the last 2 nights of unflat camping and all the woes that come with it, I’ll happily add on an additional quarter mile to tomorrow’s hike to make it up. In fact, we only have 5 miles tomorrow to Silverton, our last supply and where we’ll meet my dad who so selfishly drove out here to see us!
We hit 400 miles today, we only have about 86 more miles left before this adventure comes to an end. We’re so close!
Emilie Bikes and Hikes 