Day 8: April 23; 22.2 miles
Based on all the frigid faces we saw on trail after just leaving Ian and Jen’s warm home, I was happy to have slept indoors. With frost coating all surfaces, it looked to be the coldest night yet. Ian dropped us off early and we barreled through 14 miles before noon. Like anything I do, I like a good productive morning. Especially when getting through a lot of elevation early when temperatures are cool. David and I passed time by guessing the exact elevation of a climb. I guessed it within one foot. I was rather impressed with myself and credit my running career. I’m pretty good at guessing distance and pacing, so I guess elevation isn’t too far of a stretch.
Again, water is of upmost importance and scarce because of a low snow year. We had to go off trail to Mikes Place, a notorious trail angel who supplies hikers with water via large tanks. Given that the tanks were almost empty and no ones seen Mike for a bit, I really hope all is well. With the heat getting the rest of the hikers there down, we decided to move on and finish the day. The heat doesn’t bother me too much, though the sun has proven to be quite the mood killer.
With gorgeous views leading the way to camp, we got into camp with enough time to have a big dinner, necessary after a long day.
Day 9: April 24; 17.5 + 1.5 Bonus Miles
Had a surprisingly mild night that lent itself to good sleep. Slept in a bit with a lazy morning break down. The miles to a water cistern were quick and cruisy. Given that I still had a lot of water from Mike’s (I’m trying to get better at not over carrying) I gathered a liter of water for emergency only. The water in the cistern was dodgy, to put it lightly. Getting it out was a little terrifying- it was liable to crumple and get a hiker very wet in some very yucky water.
On our way to Little Bear Hostel, we found trail magic on the side of the trail. Cold drinks, sandwiches, and chips. What more could you want?
We marched on off trail to LBH, it felt like forever. Run by Little Bear, the hostel wasn’t much and I’m not sure it was worth the detour. Sure it had hot dogs, beer, and loads of snacks, but I wouldn’t go back. The best part was walking back to trail getting stopped by an extremely friendly non-English speaking local who greeted us with the biggest smile I’ve ever seen and cold beers. He was definitely the highlight of the day.
The plan for tomorrow originally was to nearo to Paradise Valley Cafe, get a ride into Idyllwild, and zero for a full resupply. However, after talking to a few other hikers it seems all of Idyllwild is booked up for Stagecoach Music Festival. No room at the inn, so plans must pivot. We’ll still go to PVC, but get into Idyllwild a few days later by exiting trail further north. By then there should be plenty of vacancy and cheaper rates. I don’t have enough food for the 2 additional days, but I’ll pack out food from PVC.
Day 10: April 25; 3 miles
Well, plans changed again. Have to be able to adapt! Or, in today’s case, just let whatever happens happen. We woke up to cold and clouds. Apparently the weather for the next few days is less than desirable. The mountains are predicted to get snow and 20 degree lows. Less than optimal for hiking, camping, or summiting a 10.8k’ mountain. Our new plan isn’t likely to work.
We decided to get to Paradise Valley Cafe early and come up with a plan then. We got there in record time thanks to Dave, who quickly picked us up during a hitch and saved us a 0.7 mile road walk. In that short amount of time I learned he also rode the Southern Tier bike route and was a super sweet and kind man.
We weren’t alone at PVC. It seemed every hiker we ever met the last few days was also there, trying to come up with a safe plan. We were on the fence and very likely to start back up the mountain when a local man and his son offered a ride into town. We jumped at the opportunity and got dropped off at a trail angels house who was willing to host us. Chris just started being a trail angel and was already excelling at it. Laundry, shower, hot meal, and a place to sleep? Could not ask for better.
We got to meet the Mayor of Idyllwild, Max. Being that he’s a dog, he gains a lot of attention. But don’t let that fool you, he’s all business – just look at his professional attire. Getting a picture of him was definitely a PCT bucket list item.
We heard that a few of the guys we started with were also making their way to town. Chris opened her doors to them as well and we all had a great time catching up well past everyone’s bed time.
Day 11: April 26; Zero day in Idyllwild
It’s amazing when things just fall into place and a decision you weren’t sure about proves to be the right one. Maybe it’s all the praying my mom is doing a couple thousand miles away, but waking up this morning to cold rain and snow up in the mountains confirmed that staying in town was truly the right thing to do.
Given that it was freezing and raining all morning, there wasn’t much to do besides just rest. Which, I guess is good for sore feet. But my body and brain both are on the same page when it comes to rest days. They don’t like them. I get antsy for the miles yet to do and almost feel a sense of guilt enjoying creature comforts when the goal is getting comfortable with being uncomfortable.
Eventually the weather cleared and we said our thanks to Chris and departed her home. We saw just how much snow actually fell up in the mountains and felt sorry for whoever was up there. If Dan hadn’t offered a ride, I’m fairly certain it’d be us I’d feel sorry for.
I saw on an instagram post that a hotel in town was giving comped rooms for PCT hikers for a 2 week period. Unsure if or how this was possible, we booked 3 cabins between the whole crew. Certain enough, the night was free and we didn’t even have to put down a credit card. After much contemplating, we surmised some kind (and wealthy) soul must have anonymously paid for all PCT hikers during that two week period. The cabins were beautiful, so thank you anonymous stranger!
Day 12: April 27; 19.1 miles
Another cold night that I was happy to be inside for, we all woke up early to catch a ride back to trail with Dan, who graciously offered as he dropped us off just a few days before. “I’m retired, what else do I have going on?”. I can truly say that the stars aligned for our time in Idyllwild. It saved us from a freezing and potentially dangerous weather situation at elevation. Plus, it was just a fun time.
We said bye to most of the crew, they opted to stay another day. Matt, David, and I hit trail early, good being that it was a long and exposed climb early on. I’ve diagnosed myself with nerve entrapment in my left foot. If the first metatarsal is pressed, even slightly, it sends a massive wave of pain down into my big toe. Wearing shoes is not optional, so that spot is constantly pressed when walking. It’s pretty severe, but not debilitating. The good thing is after 1.5 miles, the pain disappears. Completely. It’s the strangest thing, but has been consistent. So I’m going to roll with it and hope it doesn’t get worse. If this is the worst I have to deal with, I’ll take it.
Once again, the decision to stay in town was solidified by how much snow we encountered in the mountains. It was actually gorgeous to see the tall mighty pines half covered in snow. Wind blown and heavy, the branches proved their strength. What made it slightly more fun was dodging the large chunks of ice that were falling from 50’ high randomly as the sun melted them off the trees. It was a bit unnerving, but truly my favorite part of the day.
We got into a crowded camp a little later than usual and nabbed the last two spots in a relatively busy site. We were greeted by Oats, who we met way back in Julian. She’s crushing miles and seems to have the same mindset as us when it comes to hiking, so it’s likely we’ll be seeing more of her!
Day 13: April 28; 21 miles
Today is the day we’ll summit San Jacinto, a topic up for debate ever since the snowstorm in Idyllwild. Given that it’s well over 10K’, it’s bound to have snow and ice up there at some point. Without microspikes, I certainly was more than a little nervous about how safe getting up there was going to be. Slipping off a mountain isn’t exactly the adventure I was looking for on the PCT.
As we gained in elevation, we continued to dodge frozen ice dropping from the sky and more than our fair share of icy trail. The novelty of it wore off quickly. It was impeding progress and even all of its beauty couldn’t make up for how annoying it was starting to be. Along the way we talked to a few day hikers who reassured us that the trail was clear and summiting was safe. That’s all I needed to hear.
Eventually we made it to the junction to summit. Already 10 miles in, we didn’t realize it was a 6+ mile trip up and back down to connect to the PCT. I thought it was only 4. With another 5 miles after to camp, I knew it was going to be a long and exhausting day. 5000’ of climbing wears you out. But, it’s what I signed up for so suck it up buttercup and get climbing.
The peak of San Jacinto was slightly underwhelming, but I’m glad to have done it. I know I would’ve regretted it if I hadn’t.
Now the descent down into camp – that was a whole ordeal. For about 2 miles we slipped and slided over an icy trail. It luckily wasn’t near any cliffs, so we weren’t at risk for falling thousands of feet to doom, but it was nerve wracking nonetheless. It’s a miracle that of the 3 of us, we only had one fall (of course it was me). After what felt like a century, we slammed down our packed at camp happy to call it a day. And a day it was.
Day 14: April 28; 19.3 miles
After yesterday’s big climb and long day, I was happy to have a “short and easy” day with town being the goal. From camp, it was literally all downhill to our target – Cabazon. I was a bit hesitant, though, as my nerve pain is still very present and seems to be worse with descending. But there were no other options so down we went.
And the scenery truly distracted me from the pain and fatigue my body was feeling. It was such a fun descent with epic views of a snow covered peak right in front of our eyes. Wildflowers were everywhere and though the sun was out, it wasn’t scorching. We saw so many other hikers enjoying the views and hitting the 200 mile mark midway down. Those miles truly are flying!
Eventually the descent ended and we were faced with a 4 mile exposed road walk to catch a ride into town. At a lower elevation, the sun was hot. I was not looking forward to it at all. After a short rest huddled in the only shade we could find and soaking our heads in the only available water source for miles, we headed out. And just like that, the wind picked up, relieving us with a refreshing cool breeze. Suddenly it wasn’t so harrowing.
We were greeted by trail magic just before getting to the road we were going to try to hitch into town on. It had everything you could possibly need! But knowing that we were on our way to In-N-Out, we didn’t stay too long.
Unfortunately we didn’t have much luck hitching, so I got an Uber into town. Originally we were going to go to Banning, a much cheaper option for overnight stays, but we were advised by Mercy our uber driver that there’s a reason it’s cheaper – it’s downright dangerous. After eating a good meal at In-N-Out, where I was severely judged with a wicked look up/down for being so dirty and likely stinky, we decided to spend a little extra and stay at the casino in Cabazon.
What a totally different setting than what I’ve been living the last 2 weeks. From quiet wilderness to loud noises, crowded space, and blinking lights, I was overstimulated and already ready to be back in my tent. But we got to enjoy a hot tub and lazy River, and even met Stink Daddy, so maybe it was all worth it in the end.
200 miles done, only 2450 to go!
Emilie Bikes and Hikes 