Day 68: June 22; 18.8 miles
Woke up excited for a town day. It’s funny how getting back into civilization is so motivating, but once in town the only thing to think about is getting back to trail. But for this morning, it was nothing but excitement.
What wasn’t exciting, though, was the elevation map showing a long and significant climb. The last few days have only served to traumatize me to any semblance of a climb. I instantly think it’s going to be steep up and even steeper down. I cannot handle any more of that nonsense. Thankfully for me, it was one of my favorite climbs yet. It was exposed, it had views, the grade was gentle, I could see where the trail was going the entire time. I was in heaven.
It was pretty sudden how quickly the mountains changed. From Sierra shaped peaks to what looked like the Grand Canyon. It was stunning. What wasn’t so stunning was the snowfields coming down. Just when I thought we were done with them, they show back up. After the most joyful glissade was when the real trouble started. The move down the ice was slow and frustrating. At one point my left foot slipped causing it to bend in a way it shouldn’t, likely leading to a strain. That on top of tendinitis I was in rough shape!
But finally we made it down to the parking lot just in time to catch the 2:30 shuttle to Kennedy Meadows North (no relation to KMS). We had no idea our plan, but knew we wanted to stop at KMN for burgers (in David’s case a birthday burger!) and hitch into Pinecrest for a stay with trail angel Cookies. We just didn’t know that KMN was a mile into a very unused road, which complicated the hitch. But all that could be figured out after burgers.
We chowed down and soon it was 5pm… if we were going by to hitch, now was the time. Wanting to avoid the mile walk back to the main road, we just roamed around the parking lot looking like lost puppies. I asked an older couple if they could give us a ride to Pinecrest (they said they were headed that way) but didn’t have enough room for our packs. Would I love to ditch it? Sure, but unfortunately it’s stuck with me. I thanked them, but heard someone yell out to me “I can get you there!” Thankfully Jasmine heard my pleas for help and offered us a ride with her mom, Nicole.
Pinecrest is a haul to get to, nearly an hour, but anything I’ve read said it’s worth the detour. After a great ride, we were dropped off right at Cookies’ doorstep in a gorgeous lake town that reminded me of the Poconos. I knew instantly I made the right decision. It felt like home, so comfortable. We saw new and old faces, around 6 of us are staying the night. Cookies is making dinner complete with dessert – what a treat!
Day 69: June 23; Zero in Pinecrest
It was never in the plan to have a zero in Pinecrest, but once we settled in last night we knew it was going to happen. It’s truly such a wonderful town and Cookies is so welcoming that there was no getting back on trail today. Plus we’re lining up to enter South Lake Tahoe, a notoriously expensive town, on the weekend. Why spend money in town when we can just truly relax here? It was a lazy day, which was perfectly fine given my left foot is a mess from suspected tendinitis and newly acquired sprain from yesterday. The only walking that was done was to the store for an expensive (and half expired) resupply and to the lake for a swim.
We hung out with Andy and caught up with Oats. Andy is from Germany and we first met him at KMS with his friend Code (who showed up later today). They were on their 9th day there waiting for packages to arrive, obviously itching to get into the Sierra. We’ve seen them a few times since then, which is always a treat since they are so friendly and great to have conversations with. Andy had a tool to convert fuel from can to can, so he filled mine up and now I don’t have to go back to KMN for gas! I also learned that the show Yellowstone is extremely popular in Germany. So much so, in fact, that Andy is skipping ahead to Oregon after South Lake Tahoe so he can finish the trail early and visit is favorite state – Montana. He has tickets already to see Dutton Ranch and he can’t wait. Even Code (who is from Canada) agrees that Montana is his favorite state (not related to the show). I found it so interesting that foreigners love Montana… meanwhile I don’t think too many Americans could even find it on a map.
Having some free time at the lake was wonderful and relaxing. I spent a lot of time watching a goose with one foot. At first I was so sad for it – it was limping around slowly and other geese were avoiding it. But after watching some more I found that the goose had so much resilience and tenacity… a goose after my own heart. I soon saw that I was not the only one enamored by this one footed goose. Everyone around me was watching it too, fascinated by how it was moving, not even fazed at all about its lack of a foot. Animals are amazing in that way – I see it every day at home with my own pirate crew! I asked Cookies that night if he knew this goose. Of course he did – the goose is basically a local celebrity. I hope it has a long and happy life.
After a nice dinner with everyone we went to the lake for one last look. What a special place.
Day 70: June 24; 18.5 miles
A place like Pinecrest is hard to leave. It was such a friendly little town whose atmosphere was nothing but inviting. And with such a gracious host as Cookies, it’s easy to see how people get vortexed in places like these. But, the trail is always calling and I don’t want to lose the forward progress we’ve been making the past few hundred miles.
I was pretty concerned about the hitch back to trail, considering we were an hour away from where we got off. But Cookie reassured me that anyone going east has to go over the pass considering there is nothing between here and there. Fair point. And he was right, in less than half an hour we got a ride. Bill and Bea are in the area to pick up their granddaughter’s boyfriend from the trail. They were so excited to be trail angels for the first time to us, and we were pretty excited to not have to wait on the side of the road any longer! Relatively local, the two of them have traveled all over the world and the country. They are coming up on their 50th anniversary and will be celebrating it in Denmark, Bea’s home country. It was wonderful hearing their story and sharing ours. It made the car ride fly by.
After dropping us off, it was time to get back on trail. The day off did my body good. My legs no longer protested during climbs and my shin and tendinitis were all but gone. The only thing bothering me was my foot. It’s been a theme of this trip. Once one thing feels good, another ache is quick to replace it. Speaking of replacing, I cannot wait to get into South Lake Tahoe to go to a proper gear shop. My socks have so many holes they’re officially useless and my shoes are falling apart! Andy and Code have the same brand of shoes as I do, and after 300 miles both of theirs blew apart (but they’re still wearing them!). Mine have at least lasted me 500 miles, but they are so unbelievably uncomfortable because they’re past their lifespan. But, apparently holes are contagious, because my right shoe blew out the exact same place as theirs! I couldn’t believe the timing. They only have to last 56 more miles, I think they’re up for the challenge.
The day itself was not hard. It was still a lot of climbing, but I wouldn’t call it steep. I felt refreshed and ready for it. The plan was originally ~15 miles since we didn’t get to the trail until 11am. But seeing a nearly 9 mile water carry, we didn’t want to dry camp. So an additional few miles it was!
The wildflowers are in full bloom here. It’s stunning all the colors – yellow, pink, red, purple, and green all over. The scenery was okay, but the flowers really put it over the top.
We got into camp at 7:30pm, plenty of sunlight to make camp and dinner. It’s pretty quiet here, but the wind is making sure it’s not too quiet. I just hope it dies down – it’s cold up here!
Day 71: June 25; 27 miles
Woke up with a slight chill in the air, but nothing a hot cup of coffee couldn’t fix. I slept really well, but my body didn’t feel ready to move quite yet. Well, that’s too bad. By 6:30am I was moving ready for a 25 mile day.
The scenery itself was nondescript aside from some really cool rock formations. We’re definitely out of the Sierra, the climbs are manageable and the views aren’t as epic.
As we were approaching a paved road, we thought we might run into trail magic. A quick farout check revealed that there had been trail magic! For the last two days. And tomorrow. No luck for today. Highly disappointed, we trekked on. At our lunch break, I ran into a familiar face. I was shocked to see Grant, an instagram influencer I follow. He hiked the trail last year, his daily videos launching him into PCT fame. He and his girlfriend, Courtney, decided to come back out and tackle the trail again. They started in early May, so I never expected to run into them. His videos convinced me that hiking the PCT is manageable and fun, they’re a big reason why I’m out here right now. So while I didn’t feel like I was talking with a celebrity, I did kind of feel like I was meeting someone inspiring. All that to say they understood our disappointment in just missing the trail magic, but told us that there was trail magic just ahead…. In 13 miles.
After doing 14 miles and it being 1pm already, I wasn’t sure I was up for the challenge but it’s amazing how the possibility of really good trail magic can be a huge motivator. As my old high school track coach would yell incessantly, “head down and drive!” I took this cheer to heart and did just that.
I found myself at a great trail magic set up by Stone by 5:15pm – a new record. Stone hiked the JMT last year and wanted to give back to the hiking community. He has been here for the last 4 days and was starting to run out of food. But I enjoyed a grilled cheese, cereal, veggie burger, and rice bowl. So in terms of food, he still had plenty.
We’re camping at the trail magic spot, I refused to go even a mile farther. Today wasn’t terribly long and gave me confidence that I can start shooting for 30 miles days in the near future.
Day 72: June 26; 25 Miles
Yesterday a day hiker told us that in the next two days temps were going to drop and snow was likely. He recommended staying in South Lake Tahoe for a zero until it passes. We thought he worked for SLT board of tourism and was looking to get some hiker cash in the economy. But as I went to bed, I felt a cold wind come through and saw clouds overcome the stars. Shoot, I was sleeping without a fly. I hope it doesn’t decide to snow at midnight.
Well the wind started howling and went all night, but no precipitation though I did wake up to mean looking clouds. Surely it won’t snow at the end of June… right?!
We were off and soon fully enveloped in dark gray clouds. The wind was howling to the point it was blowing me all over the place. I was up high on a ridge and fully exposed. One sudden gust and boom, I was 1000’ down in a lake. A very beautiful lake, I may add. I would’ve taken a picture, but I am positive the wind would’ve launched it right out of my hand. I now know that wind gusts today were clocked at 70-80 MPH. I believe it. It was hours of being battered. The only other time I experienced worse wind was on the climb up Mt. Washington where I literally had to crawl a short section because the wind would just knock me down. At least I stayed upright today.
Then the sleet started. Imagine being sandblasted by tiny shards of ice. With the aggressive wind, that’s exactly what was happening. It was like being stuck in a sandstorm, absolute torture. Then, atop Carson Pass, was when it happened. Snow. I kid you not, on this day June 26, it snowed. I couldn’t believe it. It wasn’t a blizzard, but big flakes of snow were being whipped around atop that mountain in just the same fashion as me.
Coming down off the pass we came across a visitor center that had trail magic offered by volunteers who work there. They were so kind and generous. Plus it was the perfect lunch spot to try and wait out some of the rain. But boy was it cold. Already wet, at 45 degrees I was full blown shivering. It was almost necessary to get out and keep walking to prevent chills.
It rained on and off the whole rest of the afternoon, wind still participating to its fullest. It was frustrating, but you can’t have good weather all the time. Eventually I found myself back on the Tahoe Rim Trail. I set out to do this trail with Addie back in 2021. I overestimated Addie’s abilities and ultimately had to bail her out – causing her so much trauma that to this day the sight of her little doggy backpack causes her to cower. But she is resilient and fully recovered (maybe not mentally). It was odd being back, none of the miles on it so far feel familiar. I think I was in such a panic headspace that I didn’t pay much attention the first time around. We’ll be on it for a bit longer, so maybe Desolation Wilderness will jog my memory.
We are only 5 miles from SLT and plan on getting there early tomorrow. We could’ve gotten there today, but it’s an expensive town and I want to spend as little money as possible. There are trail angels who will host us for free, so we’re gonna try that tomorrow. One of the most well known ultra marathons (Western States) is in town this weekend, so I’m sure that’ll just make it even more of a madhouse.
The rain seems to have stopped, for now, but I’m not convinced it won’t be back later tonight. So I’m sitting dry and a little chilly in my tent with the fly on, flapping violently in the wind.
Day 73: June 27; 3.5 miles
The wind was blowing all night but it didn’t seem to bother me, I slept great. With an incredibly short day and 8:30am pick up, there was no rush to get up and moving.
The hike went quickly and soon we found ourselves at Hwy 50 with Gordito waiting there for us. A South Lake Tahoe trail angel, we got his info through FarOut and he was gracious enough to not only pick us up but host us overnight as well.
On the TRT I only stopped into town to pick up a package, so I never really got to explore South Lake Tahoe. But today was the day and I was so excited to check it out!
After showering and throwing in laundry, I left for town in a very peculiar outfit. A lot of angels have loaner clothes so hikers have something to wear when their laundry is being done. I was given old basketball shorts and a tshirt 5 sizes too big. I think it was said best when someone compared me to Adam Sandler. I had nothing else to wear so out in public I went!
Having only the day in SLT, we had to be very focused on how to get everything done. First things first, though. I needed new shoes. My Topos had a hole so big my entire hand could fit through and my feet ached unbearably after 15 miles. It was time. I got new shoes and water filter at a gear shop that felt more like an REI. They had it all. After that it was time to eat before resupplying – never do that on an empty stomach.
Once all the chores were done we were able to have a relaxing afternoon by the lake. It’s still windy and a bit brisk, but the sun was shining making for a great beach day.
We got back to Gorditos around dinner time where we met Tea Time from Germany and Alligator from Italy. We hung out for a while until it was bedtime, 9pm sharp.
Day 74: June 28; 19.2 miles
I never sleep well in town. I sleep so much better wrapped up in a sleeping bag in the middle of the wilderness. This night was of no exception. After a restless night it was time to get up and hit trail. Gordito made a wonderful pancake breakfast and was nice enough to drop us back off at trail. A “semi-retired” high school math teacher and state champ cross country coach, he can add a great trail angel to his resume.
As always, it’s hard getting back into the groove of things. After a quick walk and long break at the Echo Lake Chalet, it was off to enter Desolation Wilderness.
I had a bad time here in 2021. The mosquitoes were awful and I missed Addie so much. It was during this section I decided I wasn’t going to complete the Tahoe Rim Trail, I needed to get my dog and go home. I still think about doing that on this trail, but haven’t given in to the temptation just yet.
It was a beautiful walk around Echo Lake, fantasizing about having enough money to stay in any of the lovely cabins lining its shore – accessible only by boat. But alas that was short lived and into desolation wilderness we went – marked by its abundance of rock and shale. Just about the worst thing to walk on. I’m on the fence about my new shoes. I went from Brooks to Topos to now Altras. I seem to be slipping a lot in them, hopefully tying the laces differently will help.
We had lunch at the 1100 mile marker sign that happened to be right at the beautiful Aloha Lake. Infested with mosquitoes the last time I was there, I was so thrilled at the lack of the bloodsuckers this time around. I could stop and enjoy both lunch and the lake without being pop inundated with the bzzzzzers.
1100 miles in the books. So close to half way! Just wish Oregon was a little closer, I’m ready to get out of California.
Emilie Bikes and Hikes 