Day 112: August 5; 8.2 miles
I slept surprisingly well for being in a bed. I still got up early and left the hotel with plenty of time to get to Portland to drop off the car and catch the bus to Cascade Locks. I always dreamed I’d walk into the town and over The Bridge of the Gods into Washington by foot, but I just have to accept that it isn’t going to happen like that… and it’s okay.
Everything went extremely smoothly and I was in Cascade Locks by 12:45pm. It was smoky, the smokiest I’ve seen on trail. In fact, the bus picked up 4 PCTers from Multnomah Falls who were in Government Camp (~50 miles south) but had to get out because the smoke was so bad. I bought an N95 mask yesterday, any bets on if I’ll actually wear it? They’re predicting that the winds may shift tomorrow, blowing away some of the smoke. When talking to Kevin, my wildland firefighter friend, last night I mentioned this. He laughed, saying if they can accurately predict the wind like that then he wouldn’t have been needed to fight fires the last 10 years. Basically he said it’s a crap shoot, the winds will do whatever they want to do. But he did seem hopeful that the smoke might clear.
I decided to get lunch at Thunderbird Brewery. Rumor has it that there’s trail magic there in the form of a free beer. And it was true! Though I only could stomach half of it (I really have built up an intolerance for alcohol, it only makes me nauseous), I was more than satisfied with a pulled pork sandwich and huge salad. While there, I spoke to a lot of people curious about my hike and the PCT. Most notably were John, his wife Lisa and their friend David. They recognized me as a thru hiker immediately- most likely because their daughter (Bear Bait) is also hiking! In Bend now, I definitely would’ve ran into her if I didn’t skip up. He showed me a picture of her and she certainly looked familiar. I have no doubt our paths have crossed before.
When I was ready to depart back to the trail, I learned that “the parents” had bought my lunch. I thanked them profusely, the kindness of strangers is definitely a major silver lining of this trip. Just in the last week alone the kindness I’ve received has been astounding.
As I was leaving I ran into Cutie. I had never met her before, but glad I did today. She is so full of energy and has such a friendly personality. Originally from Taiwan, she came over to the US when she was a young adult and eventually started a family here. This is her third attempt at the PCT, fires usually forcing her to quit. And it looks like it might be the same story for her this year. Her husband is acting as support with a sprinter van. They also left Government Camp yesterday due to severe smoke and poor air quality. She said if it doesn’t clear up by the weekend they’ll go home, likely attempt it again next year.
I walked with Cutie over to the Bridge of the Gods. I said goodbye, hopeful that I’ll see her back on trail. She had such a warm spirit.
And so there I was… on the Bridge of the Gods. Being that I was driven there, the moment felt anticlimactic. In fact, I think I purposely tried to not pay too much attention… I knew I’d be back in a few weeks. I wanted the emotions saved for that moment.
The hike itself was fine. It’s still brutally hot and surprisingly humid here. It was all climbing, but that doesn’t bother me anymore. My body is strong and my mind has given up on fighting. At this point it’s just life. Along the way there were plenty of perfectly ripe blackberries to slow me down. How can you not indulge?? I ate another $200 worth of blackberries today and I regret nothing. It’s like they grow like weeds out here. In fact, when I asked Kathy yesterday what she does with her goats she said, “well nothing. They eat the blackberry bushes and that’s good enough for me!” Apparently blackberry bushes are invasive and Kathy wants no part of that in her backyard. I don’t blame her. They are extremely thorny and do seem to grow pretty wildly.
I got to camp at a great time and had a lazy dinner. I got bad news today about Addie. She indeed is in kidney failure, the vet explained 75% of her kidneys are damaged. I am absolutely devastated. I know dogs can’t live forever, but the thought of her leaving me is unfathomable. Hearing the grief in my voice (I think the sobbing may have given it away) the vet reassured me that diet change and monitoring are effective at managing the disease and prolonging her life. I just couldn’t believe the level of damage… she gets bloodwork done every 6 months! But upon researching, I learned that the levels don’t show abnormally until the damage is already ~75% done. All I can do is what the vet says, and she reassured me that Addie still has a lot of life in her. She better be right.
Day 113: August 6; 30.5 miles
It was so dang hot all night. I woke up sweaty but ready to go.
I’m going to complain a lot in the next few paragraphs, bear with me. Washington kind of sucks, at least the initial welcoming isn’t great. But to its credit, it didn’t greet with with a head wound (ahem, Oregon). First and foremost, Washington is a green tunnel. That’s not necessarily bad, it sure beats the burn zones, but it is kind of boring. Although the ferns are fun and look prehistoric. As a SOBO said, “it feels like we’re in Jurassic park!” I feel like anytime a millennial sees a fern that’s the first thing we think. Oh how that movie shaped a generation.
Now, the bugs. Oh the bugs. Mainly the spiderwebs. It’s a never ending barrage of spiderwebs. They spin webs right over the trail, so you’re constantly getting grabbed at the arms and legs by them. That’s atrocious, but the worst is when it gets your face. I screamed out multiple times in frustration, imagining spiders getting stuck in my hair. Now imagine you’re talking to yourself or singing or breathing with exertion and walk into one of those suckers with a wide open mouth. The thing of nightmares. I was happy to see the first SOBO, they at least cleared some of them away!
And the heat. It was ungodly hot today. No clue exactly how hot, but I was sweating starting at 5:30am and it didn’t stop until getting into camp literally dripping at 7:30pm. I drank 6 liters of water today, which for me, is a record.
Alright enough complaining. What went well today? Well I received intel that making the jump up to Washington was the right call. I don’t foresee any further issues on that front, which is a relief. Though not how I wanted the last few hundred miles to go, at least they’ll be in peace. I also made it to trail magic! Completing the PCT in 1977, Ron (Scrounger) has been providing trail magic for the last several years. I filled up on hot dogs, Fritos, and a Dr. Pepper. While there I ran into my first NOBOs of Washington! Sure I saw probably 20 SOBOs today, but it was nice to run into people who had been very well seasoned by the trail.
[Name Redacted due to PG nature of blog] (yes, that is her trail name) was there with two guys whose names I don’t remember because with a name like that, the brain needs a minute to process. But I did remember that she stayed with Sandy in Ridgecrest the day before I did. In fact, I had leftover spaghetti she made! I thanked her and complimented her culinary skills. She is doing a calendar year triple crown, meaning she’s attempting to hike the PCT, AT, and CDT (10,000 miles in total) between January 1 and December 31 this year. I actually follow her on Instagram but didn’t even realize it was her. Her instagram is unhingedhiker if you want to follow her journey to raise awareness for CPTSD. She still has Maine and Vermont to complete on the AT and the entire CDT. It’s a tough undertaking, but with seriously the longest legs I’ve ever seen on a woman, I’m sure she’ll complete it.
I left trail magic at 6pm with a nearly 4 mile steep climb. I was tempted to camp close to the magic, but ultimately decided that I had enough gas in the tank so I set out. And it was a tough climb, hence why I arrived to camp drenched in sweat, but I managed. The smoke is really bad right now, the worst I’ve seen this trip. There is absolutely no wind, so it might stick around for a bit.
Day 114: August 7; 33 miles
Once again my only companions at camp were the critters, but earplugs did a great job of knocking me out.
Today was a tough mental day. It again was hot and the terrain quite boring. And despite the day having quite a bit less elevation (5700 vs 6500) than yesterday, I was dragging. A huge positive of the day was the wind coming in and blowing the smoke out. For the first time the skies were mostly clear and I caught my first glimpse of Mt. Adams in the distance.
At lunch today I was ravenous. I forced myself to make it to a certain lake before I rewarded myself with food. As soon as my pack was off my back, I tore into it like a rabid racoon eager for any tasty morsel I could find. As I was stuffing my face, two women on a weekend backpack venture approached me asking how long I had been out there for. With a mouthful of a tortilla filled with pretzels and cheese (so very gourmet), I told them what I was doing. They were thrilled, albeit probably a little disgusted by the rate I was shoving food into my mouth, about the undertaking. They hyped me up, saying “women can do anything!” and offered me extra food. I thanked them for their kindness but let them know despite how ravenous I was, I still had plenty of food.
I saw so many SOBOs today, which was a nice way to break up the monotony of the day. I spoke at length with Tanner who had bad things about what was coming up. Mostly about blowdowns and tough terrain following the flooding from this past December. I’m of the mindset I’ll deal with it when I see it!
I am camping with 5 SOBOs, all telling me the horrors of what was yet to come but also the insane beauty of Goat Rocks Wilderness. I ended up talking with Butterfly, a retired German who currently lives in San Francisco with his family, all through dinner. He paid me a compliment on how I was able to maintain muscle when on a thru hike. “All the NOBOs I’ve seen at this point look like they’ve come straight out of a concentration camp!” The irony of a German saying this was not lost on me. It was the third time in two days people commented on how strong or capable I looked. Well I guess looks are deceiving cause while I do feel capable, I also feel extremely weak and fatigued. But I think that’s just part of this whole process.
Only 10 miles out from Trout Lake, I am positioned well to catch the 8:30am shuttle into town… if I make sure I’m out of camp by 4:45am. I apologized to everyone in camp about my early wake up, promising to be quiet in the morning.
Day 115: August 8; 23.1 Miles
It was a bad night’s sleep. One of the worst on trail, for a few reasons. First, I think I have developed restless leg syndrome, or maybe its more sinister cousin. After long mile days my feet start to cramp, working its way up my legs. The only way to stop it is to kick. It is an absolute menace and was the worst it’s ever been last night. Secondly, it sounded like critters were everywhere around my tent. Earplugs solved that, ignorance is bliss. Thirdly, I don’t sleep well around other people. Five of us were camped right on top of each other. I get very self conscious of any noise I make (ahem… snoring) and just don’t allow myself to sleep. But when I did find some sleep, I woke up in a full panic. Heart and mind racing. I’m blaming that one on recent events.
I woke up at 4am and was on trail by 4:40am, the spiderwebs to the face waking me up. I was fearful I was cutting it close for the 8:30am shuttle to town, a 10.2 mile hike with a decent climb in the middle. So I hustled. I unfortunately let the bitter thoughts in during this part of the walk. How my hike was completely turned upside down. I grieved the journey I could have had if I simply just made different decisions. I am not one to regret much in life, and I can’t say I necessarily regret doing this hike, but I am curious what it could have been if I just followed a different (figurative) path. I let myself fully discover these ugly thoughts, get them out of my head to clear it for more important things. After all, I had a hike to finish.
I got to the road with 10 minutes to spare. I was ravenous, and once again the pack exploded in desperate search of food. I grabbed the tortillas and tore into them as the truck pulled up, unloading 6 hikers giving me side eyes as I devoured pure carbs. I don’t know why they thought they had any room for judgement, I mean we’ve all starving at least once on this journey!
I hopped in the truck with Jeff excited to check out Trout Lake. In town, I didn’t leave the general store because it had everything I needed. It was pretty well stocked with hiker essentials and had laundry in the back. The showers were a short walk away. It was a great little 4 hour stop. I even got to FaceTime my family who are all together at the yearly Lake Anna retreat. This is easily my favorite weekend of the year and I was sad to be missing it. My parents, who haven’t seen my face in 3 weeks, were surprised to see that I actually look healthy. They apparently expected me to look gaunt and sickly. Well I’m glad that’s not the case!
The general store did have a scale. I’ve been avoiding weighing myself because I just don’t think it’s necessary information. But because I’ve noticed how my body has changed (my legs are sticks and I have extra skin on my stomach from lost weight), I let curiosity win. I was pretty surprised to see I lost 16 pounds. With the increase in daily mileage it’s impossible to not lose weight, I just don’t want to lose much more.
I got back on trail feeling pretty refreshed, which was excellent considering it was a pretty long climb coming up. But aside from extreme hunger hitting me, I felt great. I noticed the strong scent of smoke without seeing any smoke. Something about it didn’t feel right. I looked around for an active fire, but couldn’t find anything. A little later I ran into two women who warned me a wildfire just broke out nearby and that someone had just reported it. As I rounded the corner I could see the fire they were talking about. It wasn’t super close to the trail, but with the wind kicking up it could only take a little bit of time before it made its way over. I decided to keep going, I still had 6 miles to go and at that point I’ll be well out of its range, or so I hoped.
The walk had gorgeous views of Mt. Adams. Now that the smoke has cleared I can finally see it, and Mt. Rainier. I got my first glimpse of it today and it’s a beauty.
I got to camp at 5:30pm. Could I have gotten more miles in? Certainly. But I was also wickedly tired from poor sleep. I was happy to lazily set up camp and raid my food bags. As I did I heard helicopters and fireplanes circling the fire. They sound a little closer than I like, but the wind died so I hope it gets contained quickly. I plan on an 8pm bedtime and hope nothing disturbs it.
Day 116: August 9; 31.3 miles
What an amazing night. I closed my eyes at 7:57pm sharp with the sun still very present and didn’t open them again until I got up to pee at 1am, which led me to promptly fall right back asleep. It was quiet, no wildfires approached, there were no critters, the temperature was perfect, and the moon wasn’t blinding me all night. I woke up still wanting more, but 8.5 hours was enough.
It was actually a pretty chilly morning, which always means slow break down. Speaking of break downs, I was having a mental one all this time. Apparently less than half a mile away is a dodgy creek crossing (Adams Creek) that has warnings all up and down farout about how treacherous it is and to be careful. Given my balance doesn’t exist and I’m alone, I have been worrying all night (well up until 8pm) and early morning about this dumb creek crossing.
And so I packed up and prayed as I walked for a safe and dry crossing. When I got to the creek I saw what all the fuss was about. There were a few precarious wet logs across the raging creek that did not look stable. With shaky legs I approached the logs and gave them a solid shove with my foot. They didn’t budge – fabulous. So I carefully put one foot in front of the other and made it, slow but steady. I can’t believe I’m so scared of these dumb crossings. They’re nothing to bat an eye at, truly, but for some reason they really get me going. How am I ever going to make it on Survivor if crossing a stream sends me into a full-blown panic?!
Onward I went. Nothing much of note this morning aside from running into Steven who is section hiking. After talking a bit he told me that we’re entering into Goat Rocks Wilderness in a few miles, one of the most anticipated sections of the PCT for me, and I had no idea I was so close! He said Knife’s Edge is coming up and I should be hitting it tomorrow. It’s rumored to be the crown jewel of the PCT and weather can often times be iffy. People I talked to yesterday said it was clouded over and freezing, but seeing actual goats made up for it. I’m all for goats, but I’d rather have views. And if tomorrow is anything like today, I’ll have blue skies. I’ll keep my fingers crossed.
The rest of the afternoon was absolutely stunning once I entered Goat Rocks. It was nothing but sweeping views reminiscent of the Sierra that went on for miles. I didn’t even mind the long climb going over Cispus Pass. I had so much to look at!
I got into camp well before 7pm, plenty of time to set up, eat, and pass out before sunset again. I’m planning on getting up early tomorrow to make it the 22 miles to Kracker Barrel (of all places) to resupply and eat before getting right back on trail. I’d love to get there early tomorrow tack on some additional miles afterwards. No rest for the weary, especially when the end is so close!
Day 117: August 10; 27.8 miles + 1.2 Bonus
It was another quiet night, but certainly chilly. I woke up to pee and had a dazzling show of stars to entertain me. This is certainly going to be something I am going to miss once I’m back home. Out here the Milky Way makes a nightly appearance whereas back home I’m lucky to see the Big Dipper with all the light pollution.
I woke up early intentionally, to make it the 22 miles to Kracker Barrel early enough to enjoy it before getting back on trail.
The morning started great. The climb was made easy with dazzling views of Mt. Adams, followed by Mt. Rainier. But soon the fun stopped. I was met with an old enemy – snow. I crossed the first patch easy peasy. Psh, I made it through the Sierra. This was nothing. Well, that cockiness was short lived when I faced the second snow patch. Or should I say ice patch. The second I put my foot on it, it slipped. I looked down – a slide down the ice probably wouldn’t result in death, but it would definitely tear you up. I took a deep breath and started to transverse.
My heart was pounding out of my chest as I rhythmically performed a “pole, pole, step, step” routine. The bootpack was slick and I was praying to not slip. Well, it just wasn’t enough. Or God was testing me, cause down I went. I saw my life flash as my left foot slipped. I clutched onto my 1/2 lb carbon fiber poles with all my might and by golly they held as I fell onto my butt. I was in a precarious position – getting up on slick ice was no simple task. One miscalculation and I was sliding down a couple hundred feet. I felt a total loss of control but had to get it together. I used my one pole to poke finger holds so I could have some traction to get up. And with precise control, I was up!
Shaking like a leaf I still had over half to go across this frozen sheet of death. My watch was buzzing out of control – I knew it sensed an “incident” and if I didn’t stop it soon, it would send an emergency notification to my parents. Just what they need. But with my slow rhythmic routine, I got across in one piece and disarmed the watch. My confidence was completely shaken, but I made it alive. There were two hikers behind me who I shouted to, warning them of how icy the patch was.
Like a lot of life, the trials and tribulations yield to beautiful things. I was standing before Knife’s Edge, a part of the PCT I had been dreaming about for a year. I had clear blue skies without any signs of smoke. Ranier was standing proudly before me and I had 360 degree views of the Cascades. I was in heaven walking along the trail, sure there were steep drop offs on either side and I was still quite spooked from the ice crossing, but I felt so safe and secure with my abilities. I took my time in the two mile stretch, soaking it all in and letting the goosebumps have their moments.
The rest of the early afternoon was spent trying to get to Kracker Barrel (really a glorified gas station) at White Pass quickly. I got there around 3:30pm, plenty of time to get in a good meal and small resupply. I met a lot of hikers there. I ran back into Skyline who I met at Trout Lake, and met Ellie, Ghost, Wolf, Extra Mile, and the two guys I warned about the ice sheet who I called The Brothers in my head. I felt validated when the majority of hikers said that was the most terrifying part of their hike thus far. However, those who crossed in the afternoon had no idea what we were even talking about – the sheet must have been slush in the afternoon, not even warranting a saved memory. Some people have all the luck!
I left Kracker Barrel at 5:30pm, later than I intended which seems to be a trend amongst my “town” stops. I hiked a few miles with Wolf and Extra Mile. A couple from the Netherlands, they both are very adventurous and were trying to come up for a plan for when they finished the PCT, as they had a whole month left on their visa. In great shape, I suggested they ride bikes down the pacific coast highway! Seeing as that was likely my favorite bike tour, I told them all about it and pretty sure I sold them on it!
I departed ways with them when I opted to hike further. Seeing as camping doesn’t look great for tomorrow, I wanted to make up distance today for a more manageable day tomorrow. I got to camp pretty exhausted, which was surprising given it wasn’t a huge climbing day (5500′). Maybe my body is starting to revolt against these long mile days.
Day 118: August 11; 33.3 miles
It was a fine enough night, I just didn’t like the energy of the campsite, kind of spooked me out. When I did my now routine middle of the night pee the stars were out. But when it was time to actually get up, the forest was blanketed in a fine mist. Finally, this is what I’ve been waiting for.
I love the PNW for mornings just like this. The mist adds so much to the ambiance. The trees a little more mysterious and the forest a bit more magical. As long as it didn’t rain, I was happy to just float down the trail.
As I did, I must have spooked 3 bears. At least, I think they were bears. I’m not sure what else could make such a loud jarring ruckus through the woods, other than Bigfoot of course. I never saw them, but there was ample evidence in fresh fecal form that they had been there.
While filtering water I met Nathan, a young SOBO from Michigan who was eyeing up my filter with envy. We talked about how much he dislikes his, and was so excited to have a new one waiting for him at Kracker Barrel. We ended up talking for a while. Once again I said goodbye, sad that he’d be another one I’d never see again. “Yes you will,” he replied, “when you go North from Bend we’ll run into each other!” He was right! Since he’s the first SOBO I’ve met doing the whole thing, I didn’t realize our paths would cross again when I head back down to OR!
Nathan showed me videos he just took of a bunch of bears – including cubs. FarOut comments were abuzz with these bears. Only a few miles away, I was hopeful I would catch a glimpse too!
So I set out on a bear hunt, if for nothing else but to entertain me during a long slog of a climb. I would stop every 50 or so feet and scan, but nada. It did help me to slow down and take in my surroundings. At this point I had just entered into Mt. Rainier National Park and it was beautiful. I really appreciated what I was seeing and all the nonbear wildlife, mainly birds playing around just having fun.
As I made my way up I once again spooked a bear. I didn’t see it, but heard it crash through the bushes and trees. As I approached the scene, something small and furry ran across the trail. Oh shoot, I thought, it’s a cub! I waited for a minute before passing, surely mama is somewhere close. I looked into the tree it ran into, holding my breath in case I was met with a claw or teeth. Instead I saw the furry little creature. It was a fat marmot. What a trickster.
I carried on defeated, all my excitement was met with disappointment. But I had at least made it to Mt. Rainier National Park, another one I had never been to before! My excitement was short lived as I once again fell into a series of bonks. I was going through my food quickly, trying to curb the effects of the bonk. For me personally, a bonk is just severe hunger that is accompanied by sudden weakness and severe shakiness. I need to eat something as soon as I feel this way or I can’t proceed. As usual, all my snacks were gone so I had to unpack the pack to get to my food, whose home is conveniently at the bottom of my pack. So you can imagine all the dirty looks I received from day hikers, judging my mess.
And there were a ton of day hikers. I can’t blame them – it’s absolutely stunning scenery that is easily accessible. But darn if it doesn’t slow you down. Plus it’s just a shock to the system to see so many people on a small trail.
I got into camp late, around 8pm. Because it was getting dark, I came in like a hurricane. I feel bad for whoever I’m sharing this site with! Thankfully they didn’t make a fuss about how loud and chaotic I was. Maybe they couldn’t hear me over the flapping of their tent. It’s extremely windy here tonight, and seeing as this mysterious camper has the same tent as me, I know we’re in for a flappy night. I’m just praying for no rain, which is in the forecast for tomorrow.
I’m brutally exhausted. Which makes sense given it was a 6000′ elevation gain day.
Day 119: August 12; 30 miles
It was a wickedly windy night last night. It didn’t stop even for a minute so sleep just didn’t come well, despite how tired I was. It was a chilly morning that felt a little damp. I remember one of the brothers mentioning it was going to rain today and tomorrow, so I prepared as if it was going to. I even prepared to have a short day because I don’t want to be out walking in the rain when it’s so cold out. If it started to rain I was going to pitch the tent, I don’t want to risk hypothermia.
As the sun started to rise, it looked more and more like rain was coming. I must say, though, it was probably the best sunrise of the trip, it was so dramatic!
As I was admiring the sun, I heard a lot of ruckus up ahead. Not far from me was a herd of at least a dozen elk running down the mountain and away from me. They were wondrously loud, which makes sense considering they are huge animals. I was in such awe I didn’t even think to take out my phone to take a video of them gracefully stampeding down the mountain. As I walked I saw what they were doing on the trail. Given all the excrement, they must use the trail as their own personal toilet.
The wind was still raging on, sounding like the ghosts of Christmas future ripping through the dead trees. Luckily none fell.
I just happened to look to my right at the exact right moment to catch a herd of white mountain goats. Just chilling, I was able to catch a picture of them. I was so happy to see them, I was hoping I’d see them in Goat Rocks, but whichever wilderness I’m in now is just as good!
I had originally planned a 35 mile day to set me up well for getting into town tomorrow and staying overnight. And for most of the day I felt like it was achievable. That all ended late afternoon when once again I bonked, hard. Not even food could get my energy up. My body was tired and I still had 7 miles left.
In defeat, I started looking at closer camping, which would totally ruin my town day but sacrifices had to be made. When looking at comments on farout I saw that there was a road walk alternative that would cut off 7 miles and 5000’ of elevation gain. I thought long and hard about this option. I am very against shortcuts, I came out here to do the trail, not to walk on roads. But my body is tired and I don’t want to keep bonking… I’m running out of food. With the limited food I have now, tomorrow is going to be a bonkfest if I take the trail. After 3 miles of thinking it over, I decided to take the road. I’ll get into town earlier and figure out a plan…
…because I learned that there is another trail closure that happened today. It is from Snoqualamie Pass to Deception Pass due to the Three Queens Fire. I will be getting to Snoqualamie tomorrow, so I’ll need some extra time to plan my next move. How frustrating. There were abundant helicopters all day, now I’m realizing it’s likely to fight the fire.
It’s weird how 30 miles doesn’t feel like an accomplishment. I think it has to do with originally planning for 35 miles, but for some reason 30 just sounds… unimpressive. I hobbled into camp at 6pm. I’m exhausted, I think mostly from the long days back to back and the reemergence of blowdowns. They’re not as bad as NorCal and it seems maintenance has happened recently, but they’re still a pain to maneuver around. I’m certainly looking forward to a 7:30pm bedtime. The wind is quieter, so I pray I’ll have good sleep.
Day 120: August 13; 20 miles
I just can’t figure out Washington weather. Yesterday was freezing, last night I was hot and woke up sweating. The only consistent thing seems to be the number of small critters that harass throughout the night. But at least they’re small, and earplugs block out the worst of it. So far my tent and pack have not been chewed through, I pray the trend continues.
I woke up still feeling absolutely drained and exhausted. It took me an hour and a half to just break down camp, the longest it’s taken yet. Maybe I was just delaying the inevitable hike out to Snoqualamie. But I set forth on a long road walk.
As suspected, it was an incredibly boring walk. The smoke hung heavy in the air leading to hazy views of the surrounding mountains. I could see where the smoke was emanating from, just a few miles from trail. My friend Kevin is actively fighting the fire and he along with all the other hot shots are staying in a town just east of where I am now. They’re doing an excellent job of containing the fire, but it appears the trail will be closed for at least 2 weeks, if not longer. I talked with an NFS worker, Jeff, who alerted me that the fire is bad. I let him know the trail was closed – he had no idea! It’s funny how information travels on trail. I tried to see if he’d be willing to give me a ride, but the best he could do was a town way out of the way. I thanked him and moved on.
The road walk soon diverted onto a bike path, something I’m all too familiar with. I saw lots of bike riders determined to not let the bad AQI or smoke derail them. I walked by a huge lake and even got to see some otters frolicking around without a care in the world.
Because I felt sick and so low energy, the second I got to an actual paved road, I stuck out my thumb. I lucked out and got picked up by the first truck driving by. Daryl, who primarily lives in Seattle, has a cabin around here. He said it’s the first time in a while he and his family have come to vacation… what bad timing considering everything is on fire. He dropped me off at the Chevron gas station saving me 2 miles. I was so happy for the help.
I spent a lot of time at that gas station, which felt more like a chaotic Mexican grocery store. I can’t even describe what it was like in there, but they had my package my parents sent and good burritos. As I was chomping down on an ice cream sandwich I met Boomerang and Rocky, also going north. We discussed the fire situation and possible alternatives. They’re going to trail days so that gives them more time to figure things out. I don’t have that luxury, so I’m still trying to sort things out.
I got to Washington Alpine Club with plenty of time to shower and do laundry. More of a hostel than anything, this place is awesome. It’s a cabin built in the 1950s that has room to house at least 50 people. Run by volunteers, it caters mostly to PCT hikers. They provide dinner and breakfast at a decent cost.
I hung out with Rocky, Boomerang, Martin, Mosey, Hannah, and Michael as we all discussed logistics. Most are heading to trail days, which was not an option for me. I would love to go and see old faces, but it’s not worth running into someone I’ve put so much effort, time, and money into avoiding. I decided that I don’t trust my navigation skills to attempt any of the alternatives. Plus the air quality and volatility of the fires just don’t make it worth it for me. I’m going to Leavenworth tomorrow, bumming a ride with Hannah and Michael as they continue from Steven’s Pass. Because I still feel so sick I’m going to spend 2 days there to rest and enjoy some Bavarian food. I’m so fortunate in that I have a free place to stay there. Kevin has an apartment in town and is letting me stay there as he saves Washington. I’m so thankful for a quiet place to rest.
Dinner was an amazing feast of soup, salad, spaghetti, and brownies. I think I ate my weight in food, which is a good thing considering I have lost another 3 pounds since Trout Lake. I guess all the bonking makes sense!
I decided to stay in a little alcove that Martin referred to as Harry Potter’s closet. It’s a big bed and out of ear shot of everyone so I don’t have to worry about all my noises keeping people up. I still doubt I’ll sleep well, but at least it’s a little private!
Day 121&122: August 14+15; Zeros
My alcove at the hostel wasn’t the best choice. There was a hallway light that couldn’t be turned off, such a stark difference from the night before which was pitch black. But still I slept until 7am, woken up by a rumbling stomach eager for breakfast. Yesterday we all lamented on how much we hate eating. This has certainly become an issue of mine. Eating feels like a chore, especially on trail. Food has lost its charm, becoming more of a hassle than treat. The thought of eating anything besides powdered donuts or gummy worms makes my stomach churn. It’s been this way for about a few weeks. It isn’t uncommon on long distance hikes, it might be a sign that I’m definitely ready to wrap this thing up and go to Addie.
But food is fuel and my body was running on empty. I helped make a breakfast feast of potatoes, eggs, pancakes, and muffins. I ate a lot and actually enjoyed it. Maybe it was the company.
After breakfast everyone split off to start their own side quests. Martin, Boomerang, and Rocky all left for Trail Days while Michael, Hannah, and I waited for a ride to Leavenworth/Stevens Pass. Unfortunately we couldn’t fit Mosey into the car so she was living life spontaneously, unsure what her plan was going to be.
After a lazy morning we got picked up at 12:30pm by Dennis. He gives rides at a very affordable rate all around Washington. He is retired from the forest service and has spent time just about everywhere in the state. I must have been extremely exhausted because I spent the majority of the 1.5 hour ride knocked out in a deep sleep.
When I came to we were in Leavenworth, my stop! I am fortunate to have a free place to stay here, a town known to be very expensive. During my pacific coast bike tour way back in 2018, I was trying to figure out how to bypass a mudslide that took out part of a highway in Big Sur. While talking with a trail angel of sorts, he referred me to Kevin, a tourer who just crossed the slide successfully. After talking it out with him, Sheena and I crossed the slide safely, though illegally. Since then we’ve maintained a friendship, even though we’ve never met in person. Kevin has gone on to write two books (Above the Ashes and Bark Ranger) and do many other bike tours for charity. He’s currently a wildland firefighter, and this summer is keeping him extremely busy.
When he heard I was doing the PCT (he did it in 2013), he offered me a bunch of advice and motivation. He just so happened to move to Leavenworth and offered to let me stay in his apartment. Without the closure, it would’ve lined up perfectly that I would’ve arrived during his respite period and we would finally meet! Unfortunately the fire forced me here early. He’s actually fighting the exact fire that closed the trail! But I’m not here alone. I get to share the place with Rocky, his dog! It’s like being in the presence of a celebrity, he is the star of Bark Ranger after all!
Once I got here I hung out with Rocky and figured out a way back to trail. I had plans of exploring the town, but being tired and a thunderstorm rolling in derailed those plans. It rained a bit, but I doubt enough to quench the fires. I used the time to resupply instead. Once less thing to worry about the next day!
I woke up the next day, Saturday, still tired. I took Rocky for a long walk around town where I got to explore Leavenworth and peruse it’s very sparse farmers market. I ate all day. Wanting to keep costs down, I only ate at one restaurant. Last year I went on a family trip to Europe and the Bavarian food was the best I’ve ever had. I was thrilled to get some in Leavenworth, which very much sticks to a theme. And that theme is Bavarian. It is such a cute tourist town.
I learned two awful things when I was in town. The first is that a hiker who I met briefly just before the Sierra suffered a stroke on trail. Skittles is in recovery now and I’m praying for a safe healing journey. I also learned that another fire has closed another section of the PCT. The very section I was on my way to tomorrow. After careful thought, texting other hikers, and researching alternate routes, I decided that proceeding wasn’t my best option. The AQI was poor, the fires were volatile, and the alternates had a lot of road walking I wasn’t comfortable with. It wasn’t a decision I wanted to make… I felt like I was quitting. But I think it was for the best.
I arranged a ride back to Seattle to pick up another rental car to drive back down to Bend to pick up in Oregon where I left off. I was disappointed, but this was something out of my control. Just add it to the list of things I didn’t expect on the PCT!
Emilie Bikes and Hikes 