Day 123; August 16; travel day
I was awoken this morning by a wet nose, eager for me to get up to feed him. Rocky did not care that it was early or that he wasn’t allowed on the bed – he was preoccupied with breakfast and his morning walk. It made me a little happy that I have a senior dog at home… it’s me who has to wake Addie up most mornings!
When looking at my options on how to get Seattle, I was faced with a long travel day by bus. I decided to see if I could get a ride through a facebook trail angels page, and within the hour had three offers! Sam said he was on his way to Seattle that morning, and so I walked Rocky, reassembled Kevin’s apartment, and met Sam at 10am. I didn’t realize it was a nearly 3.5 hour car ride into the city, but it flew by with great conversation. Sam hiked the CDT and did portions of the PCT. He is a skilled cinematographer, musician, and documentarian with a vast knowledge and experience in classical music. On our way, we picked up Timmy who was heading to Stevens Pass to hike what he could until his family came to visit. Originally from Boston, Timmy now lives in Hawaii and was looking forward to getting out of the smoke. In fact, he was one of the hikers I ran into in Cascade Locks who were looking to escape from the smoke there! I later learned he drove up to Canada and reached the northern terminus through Manning Park, an open and clear way to see the monument.
Good conversation guided us to the Seattle airport where I picked up a rental and started my drive back to Bend. It was a 6.5 hour drive I didn’t intend on doing all in one shot, but once I got started I didn’t want to stop. Plus I had a ride to trail the next morning at 6am. I decided I should just get right to Bend for an easier morning. When I got into Bend at 9pm, my ride asked me to switch the pickup time to 11am. I agreed enthusiastically, this gave me time to sleep in and return the rental stress free. I stayed up way past my bedtime watching Breaking Bad and eating chocolate in bed.
Day 124: August 17; 17.6+1.2 miles
It was another day of sleeping in, I’m getting spoiled with all these days off. It was by far the best sleep I’ve had in a hotel all trip, maybe all the driving yesterday knocked me out. I came out of groggy sleep expecting a wet nose and felt around for Rocky. Oh how quickly I’ve adapted back to having a dog sleeping next to me. Sad to be alone but also happy to not have to rush out of bed to let him out, I lazily went about the morning until it was time to get back on trail. With all this time off and the heartbreak of having the rest of Washington being off limits, I have felt really disconnected from the trail. Even finishing Oregon has a bit of a “why bother” feeling to it. But I will bother, cause if I don’t it will bother me for eternity.
After I dropped off the rental car Mike picked me up. He’s a trail angel who provides rides in the Bend/Sisters area. I cannot put into words how thankful I am for these trail angels. To take time out of their day and take us to where we need to go without even asking for money is beyond generous. I always ensure they get a proper donation, it’s a sure heck of a lot cheaper than an uber. The fact that they’re all easy to talk to and great conversationalists is the cherry on top. Mike and I talked about everything under the sun, making the hour long trip go quickly.
I got back on trail and soon realized I took the wrong trailhead! I’m already rusty. There are two PCT access points from Elk Lake trailhead, I accidentally took the one that would’ve put me more north, I needed the southern one to put me back where I exited. Thankfully I realized it pretty quickly and was back on the right trail. I soon was right back to where the whole trail changed for me. In a state of panic I had exited, starting a whole chain of events that landed me in Washington and now right back here. I had strong emotions about it but kept walking.
My body is still really tired. My whole body aches, I’m not sure if I’m stiff from the time off or need more rest, but whatever it is – too bad. It’ll have to suck it up for 196 more miles. What I’m not sure if I’ll be able to suck up is my shoes. I had a “new” pair shipped out to me to Snoqualamie after the ones I had just gotten in Ashland got huge holes all over. The pair I had shipped out were the ones I used on the Batona trail. With only 50 miles on them they were practically brand new. The issue is that my feet have “grown” 1.5 sizes since starting this trip, which isn’t entirely uncommon. Unfortunately these shoes are too small, causing pretty significant discomfort which I’m not sure I’ll be able to tolerate. Luckily I can get back into town in a few days to get another pair. After all, money is just an illusion!
Though I felt like I was going slow, I was actually making good time. I had great views of South Sister to keep me company. I hiked the Three Sisters Loop way back in 2019, so the miles I was walking felt familiar. The last few of the day were actually on the loop. The first 10 or so of tomorrow’s walk are all miles I have already hiked. It’ll be nice to see what I remember!
I got into camp a little after 7pm. The days are getting noticeably shorter so there’s less light to set up camp with. I was treated, however, to a wonderful sunset. It’s hard to believe I have less than 10 days left on this adventure. I cried multiple times today mourning the end of this hike. So much didn’t go according to plan, but despite that, it was life changing and has left such an imprint on me. I’m not sure how I’m going to handle leaving this place, but like all things, it was only ever temporary.
Day 125: August 18; 27 miles
I woke up and didn’t want to move. I was so cozy that the thought of getting out of my sleeping bag felt like a tall order. But slowly I did and headed out of camp before 6am, ready(ish) to start the day.
As I walked, I remembered more and more from The Three Sisters Loop. I walked by the site I stayed where I found the possessed diary (can check it out here: Three Sisters Loop – Emilie Bikes and Hikes), Obsidian Falls, and Opie Dilldock Pass. It’s funny, going up the pass in 2019 felt like it took forever and was a relatively tough climb. Today it felt like a small blip, the only thing annoying about it was the lava rocks. I was transported back in time, remembering making the climb with an old surgeon who detested physical therapists. The only reason I was able to successfully out hike him was because he stopped for so many cigarette breaks.
I continued on past S Matthieu Lake, another familiar spot, and eventually made my way to McKenzie Pass, where the 3SL and PCT split. Last time I was here I rode my bike to it from Virginia. I now walked to it from Mexico. McKenzie Pass was special to me 10 years ago because it was a few days out from ending an epic across country bike tour. It’s ironic that it meant the same today. Despite the horrible lava rock, I loved being back.
I was getting really hungry. For some strange reason, I felt I was in for some good trail magic. There were no FarOut comments indicating there would be, but my TM senses were tingling. I told myself if McKenzie Pass was a bust, I would hold off and eat lunch at a trailhead just 0.3 beyond, surely there would be TM there! And wouldn’t you know… there was. I think I may be a little psychic.
Zed is actively hiking the trail SOBO, but his dad stopped to visit providing everyone with trail magic. Zed is taking a zero day to help. There were drinks and snacks galore. His dad was on the grill cooking up burgers and dogs. Again, I was hungry but food has not held much appeal. When a turkey sandwich was offered, I jumped on it. On an already really hot day, hot food didn’t sound good. But a turkey sandwich with bacon? That sounds refreshing. And it was a darn good sandwich.
I really enjoy getting to know people on trail, something I feel like I missed out on during the first half of this hike. I spent time talking with each person at trail magic, getting to know a little of each person’s story. There are so many interesting people out here from all walks of life, getting to know even just a little bit really creates a connection. One person, however, was the definition of a trail magic deterrent. Extremely entitled and demanding, they actively insulted the food provided while eating most of it. The hosts were more gracious than I would have been, I was getting close to grabbing the plate out of their hands and saying “no more food for you!” But I held my tongue and thanked Zed and his dad doubly for their generosity.
And off I went. It was 1pm and I had a dinner to catch! Big Lake Youth Camp provides free meals for PCT hikers. Unclear exactly what time dinner was served, I wanted to try to make it by 5 to ensure I wouldn’t miss it. At 12 miles away with 4 miles of lava rock, I was cutting it close. I hustled and make it just before 5:30pm, which was great because I was told it would be served in an hour, fabulous! It was enough time to charge my stuff and talk with Eighteen, who had been there a couple days already recovering from an injury. He said he was bitten by a brown recluse spider last month and it nearly killed him. He is still feeling the effects from it, forcing him to slow down from 40 mile days to 30 mile days. Yes, my head exploded too. It seems like everything caught up to him and he needed some respite. BLYC was a good place for it that’s for sure. Dinner was an Asian tofu rice dish that was delicious. I shared it with Lucky, Stunt, Chicken, Gopher, Tea Time, Tell You Later, Eighteen, and Just Queen. It was a great time.
I headed back to trail as the sun was setting. I only went a mile before setting up the tent and calling it a day. Even though the miles were short, it was a difficult day. It was hot and the trail was very exposed. The lava rocks tear up your feet and force you to slow your pace. As Ungrateful Trail Magic Person made sure everyone within a 2 mile radius know, they broke their ankle in this section 2 years ago. I can see how, it’s rugged and unforgiving. There was also a lengthy water carry. Being so hot and my pace slowed from the rocks, I ran out of water and was uncomfortable for a bit. Not a great feeling, but also at no risk for danger. I’m just happy to be done with the lava rocks. Tomorrow is a new day!
Day 126: August 19; 31.1 miles
It was a great night’s sleep, I only woke up once because I was freezing. But thankfully that was right around the time to get up, so hot coffee warmed me up before heading out for the day.
The morning started cool and cloudy, I was hopeful that today wouldn’t be a repeat of yesterday, hot and exposed. But unfortunately as the sun gained power, the clouds dissolved, leading to another miserably hot day. There are more burn zones out here than not, and it’s really starting to wear me down. While going over a blowdown, I just sat on it mid straddle and started sobbing. Sure, that’s a sign that it’s time to eat something, but I also think my body is reaching dangerously close to its breaking point. I still feel weak and exhausted, like I’m in a constant state of bonk. I think everything is starting to catch up. From the long mileage days to stressing over fires to constantly thinking about logistics and “what if” scenarios, I think my nervous system is ready to throw in the towel. Which is really defeating because my mind feels so strong – I could do this forever with a willing body. But I’ll make it as far as this trail will allow.
Minutes before lunch I had a chipmunk scurry across trail right in front of me. It startled me, but I wasn’t nearly as startled as this poor little guy – a hawk was hot on its tail, catching it just a few feet in front of me. Looks like it was lunchtime for the hawk too. As I ate lunch at Rockpile Lake, I was surrounded by butterflies who were one by one getting picked off by hungry birds. While leaving I found another chipmunk who had fallen prey to a hungry hawk – not sure what’s going on in the bird world, but they sure are feasting today.
The last 13 miles proved a bit of changing tides. Mostly in the shade and mostly downhill, I felt like a new woman. I floated down the trail with a bit of pep in my step – maybe I could make it to Canada! I ran into Cinderella, who mistakenly thought I was Cowgirl, my supposed trail twin. It took him a minute to realize I definitely wasn’t her. We had a very pleasant conversation for a few minutes. He’s going SOBO from trail days back to where he was picked up for the event before going back up to Washington to get as far as he can. I wish him luck!
I was doing a lot of math today. I have 120 miles left in this journey. Technically I can be done in 4 (YES FOUR!) days. It’s unreal to think about. My dad is flying out tomorrow, though I won’t see him until Friday. I’ll likely slow my pace down a little to catch a flight back home with him the 26th. I cannot believe this will be my last Wednesday on trail and this time next week I’ll be in Seattle airport waiting to get a flight and only a few mere hours before seeing Addie. I have a feeling this whole trip is going to feel like a fever dream and I’ll fall back into my old routine (it’s not a bad routine) like none of this ever happened. Though I think I’ll need a decent amount of time to recover not only physically, but emotionally and mentally as well.
Day 127: August 20; 26.8 miles
For the first time in a bit I had to wear earplugs. The wind was blowing my rain fly, mimicking the subtle shuffling of critters. I already felt a little uneasy in this particular spot, so anything to get me to sleep I was willing to do, even though I only had nightmares when I finally did drift to sleep.
During a particularly disturbing dream my alarm thankfully ripped me awake and it was time to hit the trail. I knew I had a moderate climb ahead of me, so I rolled out early to conquer it. Now my new normal, I basically crawled up the climb. Though fully exposed and in a burn zone, I started early enough where I didn’t have to deal with too much heat. But the blowdowns played a very active role in this experience. However, the beautiful views of Mt. Jefferson at the top made it worth it.
The rest of the morning/early afternoon was a bit of a blur. I really wanted to get to Olallie’s Lake Resort if for nothing else but a soda, donuts, and candy – the essentials. I still have plenty of food, but these three major food groups seem to be the only things I actually crave, and thus are usually the first to go.
I made it the 19 miles slower than I wanted, but with enough time to relax and chat before heading back out. I was shocked to see Stallion was there! Not including Washington, he’s been the most consistent face on every leg of this journey. He unfortunately is having a pack mishap and was trying to get into town to exchange it. He was pretty bummed to be stuck, but judging by his trail days experience, it might be good he’s forced into a few days worth of rest. We chatted and caught up on each other’s journeys. Cowgirl (my twin) and Eighteen joined. If I didn’t have to get in the miles I would’ve loved to stay to just hang out. And dang it I forgot to take a picture of this cute little resort! It’s so quaint, sitting right on the lake. It doesn’t even have electricity! Its freezer and fridge run on one solar panel. And judging by how cold and refreshing my orange soda (FANTA!) was, it was working overtime.
I left the resort knowing that this was probably the last time I was going to see any of these people. It’s quite sad, but part of the process. It was later than I had planned, but worth it. I had a little under 8 miles on easy terrain, no biggie. After a mile, my heart sank. I was headed right into thick smoke – I could see it in the distance and I was walking right to it. Cowgirl had flipped and is going SOBO for a few days. She said the smoke was bad, but tolerable. What I was seeing looked horrendous. Two hikers at the resort made a last minute decision to hitch out and skip up ~50 miles to avoid the smoke. At the time I thought that was a rash decision, now I wasn’t too sure.
It’s certainly the worst I’ve been in so far, but with the end only 93 miles away, I just have to get through it. With tired feet I hobbled into camp, setting up quickly and ate an easy dinner. My dad flew in today and I’ll meet him in ~20 miles. It’ll be great to see a familiar face amiss all the chaos!
Day 128: August 21; 29.4 miles
I woke up mere seconds before my alarm, clueless that it was time to get a move on. 4:15am, I was startled to hear footsteps heading right my way. I was alarmed until I remembered that Oyster, who I had met the day before, was attempting the 24 hour challenge. Which, as the name implies, is a notorious PCT challenge in which hikers hike for 24 hours, usually from Ollalie to Timberline Lodge, about 50 miles. I’ve heard some people are able to get 75 miles in that time frame. I was never interested in that challenge, but quietly wished Oyster luck on her journey.
I was on the trail by 5:30am, relying on my headlamp for a decent amount of time due to the sun rising later and the thick forest. I don’t really remember much, I was really in the zone and next thing I knew I was 14 miles in with only 6 to go until I was at the road where I was to meet my dad!
Soon, coming around the corner, I saw someone I recognized… it was my dad! I was very emotional, nothing could stop the tears. Seeing someone who I knew loved me and had supported me through this entire journey brought out a lot of emotions.
We walked together the 2 miles to the road where he was parked. The car held a few goodies including watermelon, chocolate milk, and above all else – grape soda. Orange soda is all fine and dandy, but I have been craving grape soda for months. And guess what soda is the hardest to find?
Woody, a NOBO who I never met before popped out of the woods just in time for a grape soda. He was looking for a ride to Government Camp to get out of the smoke (it was bad all morning) and traffic for a hitch looked pretty bleak. But once again, luck was on Woody’s side because that was right where my dad was headed. After taking a soda for the road, I said see ya later to dad and went on my way.
Somehow the smoke got even worse as I walked past Timothy Lake. I was originally going to stop there, but at 4:30pm I had more miles in me. Plus it would set me up perfectly for the next couple days, including a stop tomorrow at Timberline Lodge, a PCT staple.
I got into camp at 6:30pm. It’s a big space and I’m sharing it with Miami and Izzy, both SOBOs. When I got in, it was only Miami. In gratitude for sharing the site and in apology for getting up early, I offered him my extra grape soda. My stomach was a little upset anyway, maybe it was all the Oreos I’ve been chowing down on. He graciously accepted the gift. He’s from Scotland and doing a section hike from Canada to Tahoe. Izzy is from Ashland, OR and is doing a section hike as well. She set out with her brother, but after realizing that walking wasn’t his cup of tea, he bailed out and she’s continuing alone.
In an effort to get to Timberline Lodge early, I’m getting up earlier than usual, so no more dilly dallying, it’s time for bed.
Day 129: August 22; 26.2 miles
As planned, I got up extra early and set out in the pitch black night. Armed with my headlamp, which died right before sunrise, I caught dazzling views of Mt. Hood and scared off a few bears. Right before embarking on a long climb to Timberline Lodge, I was greeted with more trail magic! Fresh off the Bigfoot 200 Ultra race, Ben and Amanda provided a dazzling display of all things hikers would want. I loaded up on donuts and fruit to fuel me up this climb.
Even though views of Mt. Hood provided some distraction, there was no distracting from the mile of loose sand that brought my pace to a screeching halt. One step forward two steps back seemed to be the pace and I decided to video the experience, completely baffled by why it felt like I was transported to the Jersey Shore when I was very much in Oregon! Too focused on complaining to the camera, I walked right by my dad. But soon realized my error and walked to the Lodge with him.
Timberline Lodge is very much a PCT staple. Notorious for its breakfast buffet in which hikers would indulge in an all you can eat assortment of breakfast foods, it’s a must stop. Unfortunately, blaming rising food costs and endlessly hungry thru-hikers, the Lodge ended the breakfast buffet this year. What a bummer! But I did get to have a decent meatball sandwich and picked up my resupply box. I was very happy to see their pickup routine was private and annoymous, just as they promised me on the phone.
I departed the Lodge and my dad and headed back on trail. My intent was to get to camp quickly, despite being told by multiple hikers to take an alternate trail. It added distance that I wasn’t interested in. However, I soon realized that something didn’t feel right. When I checked my map, I saw that I inadvertently took the Paradise Loop trail, which did eventually dump me back onto the PCT. Oh well, I did enjoy great views and could see the Austin Fire burning in the distance. I was blessed with a smoke free day to enjoy.
Soon the fun stopped when I got to Sandy Creek. It was rushing, and living to its name, was very sandy. This led to poor ability to see how deep it was. I couldn’t find a safe way to cross until I was caught by a group of people coming back from mushroom foraging. They were shocked by how much stronger the creek had gotten compared to when they crossed earlier in the morning. They had trouble figuring out a good way to cross as well. They had two dogs who crossed without worry. I was able to guage how deep it was based on where they crossed and so I headed in and crossed safely with soaking feet. But I didn’t care, I just wanted to get to camp. I said goodbye to the mushroom folks and took another alternate to Romona Falls, which felt like I was transported to Fern Gully. I got to camp just before sunset. I cannot believe this is my second to last night on the PCT. I am camping next to a raging stream.
Day 130: August 23; 27.4 miles
For once I was thankful my alarm went off. It pulled me out of a wicked nightmare. While nightmares tend to be a nightly occurrence for me, I have a theory that sleeping near water escalates the nightmares to deeply disturbing. The louder the water, the worse the dream. Regardless, I was happy to be back in reality.
I met my dad 5 miles in for some chocolate milk and soda. I’ve been carrying 2 sodas since we have so many and give out 1 as spontaneous trail magic for a random PCT hiker. Yesterday I didn’t see any, but today I was happy to offload the weight almost immediately to someone camping not far off the road. He was confused but grateful and I didn’t have time to explain why I was carrying grape sodas, of all flavors.
The rest of the day was spent walking and contemplating how I was going to end the day. I always knew I was going to take the Eagle Creek alternative to get to Cascade Locks. It’s home to the famous Tunnel Falls, after all. There are two trails to access the falls – a short but extremely steep one with loads of blowdowns and drop offs and a chill mellow trail that adds an additional 4 miles. I debated internally all day but ultimately decided to go the long way. It’s my last official full day on trail. Why cut it short? Plus, my toenails are all black and my knees really hurt. I don’t think I can tolerate a steep 2 mile descent.
I also spent my time grieving the end of this trail. I had a lot of “this is my last blowdown” or “that is the last squirrel who’s going to chatter at me” thoughts. By this time next week I’ll be home and this all will feel like a fever dream.
I got to the cutoff and said goodbye to the PCT. It has been my home for 130 days, walking away from it felt like a betrayal. It’s served me well, but I know it’s not the end. Lamb and Brisket finished at Snoqualamie today. Lamb made a poetic point that we’re not “ending” the trail, we’re “pausing” it, for now.
I got into camp at 6:30pm. I’m just a mile out from Tunnel Falls and only 10 from Cascade Locks. Since it’s a short day and I actually want to see the falls in the sunlight, I’m sleeping in! No alarm set for the morning. I think that’s a pretty good way to start my last day on the PCT.
Day 131: August 24; 12 miles
Even though I slept in, I was still the first one out of camp. I mosied my way to Tunnel Falls and had the whole place to myself. Tunnel Falls is a beautiful waterfall that you can walk behind through a short tunnel. It has intrigued me since learning about the PCT and was surprised that it isn’t on the official PCT. I had such a wonderful time soaking it all in, making peace that this is my last day on trail.
The rest of the hike was uneventful, minus a short rockslide that just recently happened. It almost took out the hiker who warned me about it. I got across it fine, but it wasn’t fun. I met up with my dad in Cascade Locks and I crossed the Bridge of the Gods for a second time, this time with him.
The whole thing felt so anticlimatic. I didn’t want to end my thruhike on a random Monday in Cascade Locks. I was let down and felt incomplete. We had planned on going to Olympic National Park in Washington to spend a few days before heading home. However, something was eating me up inside. The itch to see Canada was hard to suppress and I soon found myself looking at alternates to the border. There were two option – Monument 47 or 90. After studying both routes, I decided that Monument 90 was optimal. My dadwas all for the impromptu change in plans. Nearly 8 hours away and already 2pm, we headed to Winthrop WA where I would get on trail at 5am the next morning to make my way up to Canada…
Emilie Bikes and Hikes 